* Life in Laos

The Hmong in the United States, as well as those at Wat Tham Krabok, are originally from Laos. There, Hmong society has been shaped by life in the mountains, slash-and-burn agriculture, the practice of animism and ancestral worship, and a patriarchal family and clan system. War and dislocation, coupled with a long history of being an oppressed minority, have also altered the Hmong way of life. Yet the persistence of cultural traditions, in the face of forces to change them, is a well-observed feature of the Hmong. As William Geddes noted in his 1976 study of the Mong Leng of northern Thailand, “The preservation by the Miao (Hmong) of their ethnic identity for such a long time despite their being split into many small groups surrounded by different alien peoples and scattered over a vast geographical area is an outstanding record paralleling in some ways that of the Jews.”

* Daily Life in Laos

A typical day for a Hmong family in Laos begins at about 4:00 in the morning or at the first crow of the family rooster. The oldest daughter and daughter-in-law are usually the first to get up. They cook breakfast, prepare foods for lunch, feed the animals, and clean the house. The husband helps his wife feed the animals and grind corn. After breakfast, the working members of the family will head to their fields, leaving the young children with the paternal grandparents.

Children 6 years of age or older may accompany their parents to the fields, doing what they can to help. Hmong children are expected to contribute to the welfare of the family. Children learn to baby-sit their younger siblings and help with other chores at a very early age.

After working together in the fields, the family usually returns home before sunset. On the way, they gather firewood and wild plants and herbs for dinner. At home, there are activities in the evening for everyone. Parents prepare the evening meal, attend to the animals, and make sure there are enough supplies for the next day. The paternal grandparents sit next to the fireplace with their grandchildren and tell stories. Many of these stories concern animism, animals, and the environment; others are about the past, such as when the Hmong lived in the valley of the Yellow River in China. Hmong elders also use stories to explain why things are the way they are—why, for example, the tiger has black and yellow stripes or why the bear has black hair. Outside, in the moonlight, men and teenagers observe the stars and learn to play Hmong musical instruments, while young boys practice the art of Hmong kicking.

When dinner is ready, everyone is called to the table, and it is time to share news and information. A family dinner usually includes rice, meat (boiled, fire roasted, or fried), boiled or stir-fried vegetables, Hmong vegetable soup, and sauce (chili or tomato sauce). Chicken, pork, and wild game are common meats. After dinner, young men may go to court girls in the village or in nearby Hmong settlements.

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Nestled between Thailand and Vietnam, Laos is one of the true jewels of Southeast Asia. Though some parts of it may not be as highly developed as its Indochina counterparts, there is one area where it has managed to keep up - casino gambling.

The Dansavanh Casino is located in Ban Muang Wa-Tha, Vientiane Province. This Laos casino brings in many jobs for the locals, who sometimes do not always have a chance to earn a living wage. The Dansavanh Casino is heavily reliant upon tourists in order to make money. Locals normally only work there and do not spend their wages on gambling. Because neighboring countries such as Thailand are littered with flashy, flamboyant casinos, Dansavanh Casino relies more on tourists from China, which borders Laos on the Northeastern tip (though they do get some Thai tourists in to gamble).

The Chinese government has always been very much against gambling, especially within its own borders. This is why places such as Laos can open up casinos and be instantly successful–gamblers from other countries. Because gambling is so taboo in China, the tourists flock to casinos in excitement to satisfy their curiosity, and they usually spend pretty big. Laos casinos have long benefited from this type of spending.

Recently, the Chinese government forbid their citizens to travel to other countries to gamble. This especially meant neighboring countries such as Thailand and Laos. Because Laos does rely so heavily on commerce with China for income, they agreed to enforce the ban. Though this greatly hurt the income of Dansavanh (amongst others), they are still open for tourists from other countries. It is also believed that many Chinese still come to Laos to gamble, but it is not always in big public Laos casinos, such as Dansavanh.

Casino gambling in Laos features many of the same games that you would find at any other casino around the world. Games such as blackjack, baccarat, roulette, slot machines, and video poker can be found in the casinos. You can even have private or public tables to play at, if you so desire.

Due to the beautiful resort communities and the ability to gamble within its borders, Laos will continue to be a force in the Southeast Asia tourist market. More beach front properties and even resort casinos are in the planning and are likely to be opening in the near future. This provides not only entertainment, but also a source for jobs and government income for this underdeveloped nation.

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Mist shrouded mountains surround the village in the morning, a slight chill is in the air. During the day temperatures reach to the 40 C centigrade. I sip a cup of “Lao” coffee, and enter a second.

The French left their legacies in form of “Cafe aux lait”, milk coffee, and an added surprise, baguette (French white bread for those who are unfamiliar with the word).

Sitting on the Veranda I order a Vegan baguette, it comes with a variety of garden fresh vegetables. Amazingly good, served by the proprietress of the guesthouse I live, the hearty smile adds to the beauty of the morning.

The sun rises, with it comes the heat. The jungle surrounding us is now steaming. I rent a bike for the day, and set off to my discovered place, “MY” private jungle pool, a few miles from where I lodge.

A cave that was discovered long ago, a Buddhist temple adjacent; the hermit Buddhist monk who passed away years ago, his skull has been placed into the cave for those who want to admire it.

A small paradise in a foreign land, amidst of lush tropical foliage. The daily plunge becomes a ritual, an experience that leaves me refreshed and invigorated. My thoughts wander to Hungary, Budapest, where I Spa in a five star property. In stark contrast to the daily underwater massages, the mud packages, the Bio Sauna, here I have it all, and for nothing. I would not exchange with Acapulco, nor with Biarritz at this moment.

Tiny fish swim curiously around me, the bottom is a few meters deep, and I set out to explore the cave underground. Deep from inside the mountain the spring has its beginning, and rushes out in powerful force. Difficult to overcome its current, swimming against is difficult. I manage into the dark, unknown cave, grabbing on the rocks that protrude from the side.

Not being exactly a cave explorer I return when it gets darker. You never know what you may encounter here.

Many years in Africa have taught me many lessons, and one them is not to take unnecessary risks. Challenging nature is unwise, in any form. I enjoy the sight and return to my fishes companions, who are playing in the current.

I could stay the whole day here, enjoying the wonder of god’s creation, for it is nothing less than a wonder. So I lay back, float in the pool till lunch time. I notice by then that my body temperature must have dropped significantly. I step out finally sit on a wooden bench nearby the cave, and drench myself in the sun.

I cycle back through rice paddies, the farmers waving friendly towards me, standing knee high in the paddies. Water buffalos plough the fields, a unforgettable scene.

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